Laser Hair Removal -- Frequently Asked Questions

Find out how laser hair removal works and the limitations of the procedure.

Given the many physicians' and non-physicians' offices that offer hair removal, how do you decide where to go for treatment?

There are several questions that one should ask that will help you decide where to go for laser hair removal, or whether laser hair removal is the right approach for you.

What laser is being used and why?
At the Duke Dermatology Laser Hair Removal Clinic, we are currently exclusively using the Gentlelase II laser. This is the newest Alexandrite laser made by Candela, and it targets melanin or pigment in the hair and skin. Because of the potential damage to pigmented skin, we are only able to treat light skin and dark hair at this time.

Who will be doing your treatment?
Ideally the same registered nurse, physician assistant, or doctor would treat you at each of your visits. At the Duke Dermatology Laser Hair Removal Clinic, the same experienced doctor and physician assistant team will treat you at every visit.

Who is overseeing the clinic? Will this medical director be on site during your treatment?
Dr. Elise Olsen is the Medical Director of the Duke Dermatology Laser Hair Removal Clinic and will be on site each day you are treated. An internationally renowned expert in hair disorders, Dr. Olsen was an investigator in the first study on laser hair removal using the ruby laser. She has published and lectured on various hair removal techniques and unwanted facial hair (hirsutism) in women.

Why can't you do laser hair removal in people of color?
We would very much like to offer laser hair removal in people of color (people of East Indian, African or Hispanic racial background), but the laser we have currently will not allow us to treat hair on dark skin without damaging the skin. It is difficult to find one laser that treats hair effectively and safely in people of all skin colors. In the future, we hope to be able to offer other lasers that will allow us to safely perform laser hair removal in all skin types.

Will I need to use a topical numbing medicine before the treatment?
The use of a topical anesthetic (numbing medicine) is dependent on the pain threshold of the patient and the power (fluence) that is used. We recommend that all patients use a topical numbing medicine applied at least 45 minutes before their treatment. This allows us to use the highest power possible and thus to maximize your response to the laser. The cost of this is included in your charge for the visit.

How much will it cost?
Laser hair removal is expensive because of the cost of the machine. In general, you will need at least three treatments at four to eight weeks apart, and then again at six months. At the Duke Dermatology Laser Hair Removal Clinic, the minimum cost will be $150 per treatment but the ultimate cost of each treatment will depend on the size of the body area being treated. Laser hair removal is generally not covered by insurance.

Do you guarantee permanent result from your laser hair removal?
If anyone tells you that laser hair removal is permanent, you need to ask for their definition of permanent. Laser hair removal causes permanent hair reduction, not absolute loss of treated hair. The hair grows back slower and finer after treatment with the laser, so that there may be long intervals with no hair or very sparse hair. But it is rare to never have any hair grow back after laser hair removal. You should anticipate "touch-ups" every six to 12 months after the initial three treatments in order to maintain the smooth look you desire.